Grace On The Go (Closed as of June '03)

This gourmet take-away has only been open since Friday, and people are already coming in to say, "I heard the prosciutto and blue cheese sandwich was great; pack me one of those." Today, it was a feat to get past the videocameras, reporters and inquisitive Slopers in order to peruse the offerings. Good food on 7th Avenue is a real event.

Susan Knightly, the charming chef and manager, said of her creamy squash bisque: "This was a lovely year for squash, they were so sweet. Because of their flavor, it was easy to make the soup low-fat; I just caramelized some onions and added some low-fat milk." (I promptly made off with a pint.) Knightly orders her baked goods from Sullivan Street Bakery; their chewy focaccia sends me into seventh heaven. (As of April, Amy's Bread is their supplier of choice.) I ordered a seared tuna nicoise salad with wonderful garlicky dressing, interspersed bites with the aforementioned focaccia, and ended things with a big chocolate-chip cookie. When I go back (tomorrow), I will buy a brick of macaroni and cheese and perhaps a key lime pie.

Grace's is open from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m, with deliveries at all times. There is a "coffee window" for harried commuters who need those muffins and steaming cups of java on their way to the F train. I know I do!

Grace On The Go: 352 7th Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 499-2019.